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Beta Routesetting
Germany
Приєднався 23 лис 2010
Hello everyone, welcome to our Beta Routesetting channel!
We are a crew of route setters working and traveling all over the world creating boulders and videos.
We don´t care wether competition or commercial setting, world cup, hard moves final, regional or fun cups - we do everything!
Enjoy our world cup reports, travel & setting videos & feel free to ask us whatever you want!
IMPRESSUM:
Niklas Wiechmann
C/O Athletia Sports GmbH
Susanne Ulhaas
Richard-Byrd-Straße 31
50829 Köln
E-Mail: hello@athletia.net
niklas@betaroutesetting.de
Telefon: +49 221 35 554 -0
#stay climb #keepparkour
We are a crew of route setters working and traveling all over the world creating boulders and videos.
We don´t care wether competition or commercial setting, world cup, hard moves final, regional or fun cups - we do everything!
Enjoy our world cup reports, travel & setting videos & feel free to ask us whatever you want!
IMPRESSUM:
Niklas Wiechmann
C/O Athletia Sports GmbH
Susanne Ulhaas
Richard-Byrd-Straße 31
50829 Köln
E-Mail: hello@athletia.net
niklas@betaroutesetting.de
Telefon: +49 221 35 554 -0
#stay climb #keepparkour
Budapest Olympic Qualifier Mens Final Report
For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas
FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do
betaroutesetting
QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
Beta Routesetting on Social Media:
betaroutesetting
betarouteset...
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas
FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do
betaroutesetting
QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
Beta Routesetting on Social Media:
betaroutesetting
betarouteset...
Переглядів: 3 449
Відео
How to set a toe hook catch - Niki & Jake try another route setting tutorial
Переглядів 5 тис.День тому
We had some time at Studio Blocmasters 2024 to play around with some nice Squadraholds and filmed a short "how to set a toe hook catch" episode. Jake Mason from the Bouldering Bobat crew joined us for some setting & filming shenanigans - let us know if you want to see any other moves we can discover together in the future! Instagram: jakermason schniklas instagram.co...
Niki & Jake Route setting in China: Part 1 - Shanghai
Переглядів 2,6 тис.2 місяці тому
We went to China for some route setting abroad! It´s Jakes and Nikis first time ever in China - we got invited by Banana climbing & AGHolds for a one week trip route setting commercial & a comp in Shanghai & Ningbo. Enjoy what we did, what we share & our boulders with a crazy fun team! Niklas Wiechmann - schniklas Jake Mason - jakermason For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If y...
Setting a World Cup move boulder with shaper Manuel Wiegel & Jake Mason - New RESET climbing holds!
Переглядів 4 тис.2 місяці тому
Reset - our own climbing holds brand by Manuel Wiegel & Niklas Wiechmann. Enjoy Manu & Jake Mason setting, climbing, testing on the new set of our first range: cuddles Manu talks you through his thoughts behind the full range & how to set a spin move with them! if you got any questions let us know www.climb-holds.com For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become...
Route setting tips & tutorial: Setting boulders with limited space & holds
Переглядів 2,6 тис.3 місяці тому
Welcome to another route setting tips & advice episode. I deal with some questions from reddit showing how to set in limited spaces & with limited resources. If you have more questions about route setting let us know - always happy to talk about route setting! For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon....
First Reset Comp Boulder at Studio Bloc Masters 2024 Semifinals
Переглядів 1,6 тис.3 місяці тому
Watch Robert Leistner set with the new Reset Holds set "Cuddles" for the semi finals of Studio Bloc Masters 2024! resetholds For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do betaroutesetting QUESTION - Have a question...
Boulder des Monats März - Monolith Boulderhalle
Переглядів 1 тис.3 місяці тому
Niklas won the ticket to set one "Boulder of the month" in my gym this year. This episode is dedicated to Niklas and his vision. Thanks for joining us and having so much fun :) For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do betar...
How to make climbing holds? Meeting hold shaper Frank Bogerman at his Axis workshop.
Переглядів 1,8 тис.4 місяці тому
Meet Frank Bogerman: The founder of Axis climbing holds! He can show you how to make climbing holds! Axis founder & climbing hold shaper Frank Bogerman invited Niki to visit his workshop. They took a tour and Niki learnt a lot about making climbing holds, shaping, designing, the future & the past of Axis climbing holds service. Thank you Frank for showing us what´s coming & which ranges you are...
Dockmasters 2024 Final recap - Interview with route setters & athletes
Переглядів 2,9 тис.4 місяці тому
Jake and Niki visited the Dockmasters 2024 at Boulderhal Energiehaven in Utrecht to set some Boulders for the qualification round. For the first time ever I tried to capture some before & after comp comments from setters & athletes - cool show & cool boulders. I hope you like the quick & dirty episode. Thanks to climb-holds.com for making it possible & the cool Axis & Squadra boulders - will ta...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Marco Erspamer - Behind the scenes
Переглядів 3,2 тис.5 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Marco "Kirsch" Erspamer. Marco set the grande finale - the endless - the most dramatic boulder of the whole season. The famous Boulder 4 of Brixen. An awesome, open minded setter, emotional, fun & always looking for something new - trying to push the limit -...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Riccardo Caprasecca - Behind the scenes
Переглядів 4 тис.5 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Riccardo Caprasecca. Riccardo is a route setter & gym owner from Rome with the biggest heart for route setting you can only imagine. It's my biggest pleasure to spend time around & with him cause it's filled with laughter, Italian cursing & emotional nice ou...
How to set a boulder: Difficult boulders & moves tipps & advice - Route setting at hang London
Переглядів 9 тис.6 місяців тому
Welcome to another how to set tipps & tricks video: Route setting difficult moves above your limit. Again with my friends from bouldering Bobat at their gym hang in London. How can we set boulders or moves which are harder than we can climb? I hope to shed some light on ways how to set, test & tweak some things you can't climb. It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, c...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Anna Borella - Behind the scenes route setting
Переглядів 3,1 тис.6 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Anna Borella - Italian licensed setter from Milano. It was Annas first time setting at an ifsc Worldcup and she was obviously quite nervous being filmed & interviewed. I did the interview after the comp via zoom and I'm incredibly thankful for Anna being so ...
Hang London Birthday Comp - Setting the Womens Final Boulder 3 - Squadra Frutti di Bosco
Переглядів 3,4 тис.6 місяців тому
It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, celebrated it's second birthday! This boulder was their first final boulder ever for Tom & Joe! Very exciting to play with the huge Squadra Frutti di Bosco volumes! Together with my friends from Bouldering Bobat we created 6 final blocs & 25 qualification boulders over 2 days of route setting. I'll show you some behind the scenes...
Hang London Birthday Comp - Setting the Mens Final Boulder 2 - Axis Climbing Holds
Переглядів 6 тис.6 місяців тому
It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, celebrated it's second birthday! Together with my friends from Bouldering Bobat we created 6 final blocs & 25 qualification boulders over 2 days of route setting. I'll show you some behind the scenes route setting footage of some boulders over several episodes - enjoy! This boulder was my Mens final 2 with Axis climbs hold stacke...
Beta Talk: Communication in route setting spaces with guest Alise Zvigule
Переглядів 5636 місяців тому
Beta Talk: Communication in route setting spaces with guest Alise Zvigule
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Tsukuru Hori - Behind the scenes routesetting
Переглядів 10 тис.7 місяців тому
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Tsukuru Hori - Behind the scenes routesetting
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Stefan Scarperi - Behind the scenes routesetting
Переглядів 4,2 тис.7 місяців тому
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Stefan Scarperi - Behind the scenes routesetting
Jumpstyle by Beta Routesetting - THE classic route setting video
Переглядів 2,6 тис.9 місяців тому
Jumpstyle by Beta Routesetting - THE classic route setting video
Using Depth & Angles in Setting - Route setting insights, tipps & tricks
Переглядів 6 тис.9 місяців тому
Using Depth & Angles in Setting - Route setting insights, tipps & tricks
Janja Garnbret doing her thing at the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Переглядів 19 тис.10 місяців тому
Janja Garnbret doing her thing at the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Anraku Sorato destroying the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Переглядів 14 тис.10 місяців тому
Anraku Sorato destroying the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Q & A - Behind the scenes of the Brixen Boulderworldcup 2023
Переглядів 2,6 тис.Рік тому
Q & A - Behind the scenes of the Brixen Boulderworldcup 2023
Setting a worldcup boulder at the Boulderworldcup in Brixen 2022 with Squadra Dadaos
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Рік тому
Setting a worldcup boulder at the Boulderworldcup in Brixen 2022 with Squadra Dadaos
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Mens Final
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Mens Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Womens Final
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Womens Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Seoul Highlights Men & Women
Переглядів 4,6 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Seoul Highlights Men & Women
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Men Final
Переглядів 9 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Men Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Women Final
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Women Final
Studio Bloc Masters 2023 - The route setting process #2 - Female final
Переглядів 4,7 тис.Рік тому
Studio Bloc Masters 2023 - The route setting process #2 - Female final
Love the analysis with the green and red circles. Really highlights the difference in foot and body position
I’m a Medji fan, but he didn’t climb his best while Sam and Paul did a little more. I like combined but hope there will be speed, combined, bouldering, and lead at LA Olympics.
Glad to have these back!
Gibts so ein reset shirt zu kaufen?
Bald! Wir sind gerade im Bestell Prozess - bekommst du hier und auf Instagram mit 😇
Nice :)
daily reports from niki and jake for every sport at the olympics
what a fight for both of them !!
Ulrich is back??? Gut das du das hier ansprichst, sonst wüsste ich es nicht. Wir waren mal mit Deinem Vatter klettern, in Göttingen am Kollos (jetzt natürlich total Verboten:)) Alles Liebe an euch beide. Micha
Blocks probably too hard and only one top (only in M4) don't you think it was a bit of a boring race?
There were 4 tops in M4 not 1. Still plenty of progress made by athletes so not boring at all but could be a bit better with a few more tops
Mejdi is different
dk what happened
Madlib! <3
I think the last move on m4 was really cool, really was a nice last move of the competition, very spectacular but not too hard. However I can see why it might be too easy considering how hard the rest of the round is. 4/32 tops is not ideal, I think like 10/32 would be better, altho as you say a hard round is better than an easy round and it's how hard to get it right. M1 final move and M2 2nd part could have been a little bit easier
Daily olympic reports with Jake would be awesome
Dream team
Mehr davon, Niki! Das nächste Mal mit etwas mehr Ersthaftigkeit bei der Sache bleiben, sonst bekommt der Captain noch einen Herzinfarkt.
Cool video! Which makita is this?
Planning to open a gym in the future, so I have been studying route setting like crazy. Great job on this video. With the crazy costs of building a gym, especially those that are invested in the walls, I want to avoid chewing up the wall with endless amounts of screw holes. Does that make sense? With this in mind, I like the idea of your “working jug”, but why would you not simply use a bolt on hold and avoid the unnecessary screw damage. Serious inquiry- not a jab. Thanks.
The wear of the wall is part of the job your wall will get old and boring long before it's destroyed by set screws. Don't worry so much, because when you do your setting will suffer from it. It's pretty lame when routesetters are kept on their toes because management doesn't want screw holes. Setters should be responsible and conscious of what it is acceptable or not, make them think before doing anything as it should be, but don't police them too hard as their final product will suffer from it.
Make a concrete wall, no one will put screws in😂
No you are totally right. Usually we use designated down climbing jugs but on the other hand a wall with the size of studio bloc lasts another ten years before any of the panels need to be replaced because of too many holes. But in general we use down climbers or a M10. Was just too lazy in the moment of the video tbh
I hope wall owners (some do) tell you it’s forbidden to put screws ons in. If you got questions about walls or wall designs let us know. A lot of mistakes can be avoided and money saved ☺️
As a routesetter I have to say, screwing in testing jugs with spax instead of M10 makes some gym owners re ally not happy. Also if you search positions for holds I would use M10 first and then for fine tuning if necessary use the spax. Like in this boulder both starting holds are very close to M10s and as far as I can see in the video they dont even tried them. But all in all a good tutorial :)
As always it depends on the gym. If it’s unnecessary screwing yes - like our testing hold, we should have used a normal axis downclimber with a M10 but we’re too lazy and too focused doing our video. The two side pulls maybe could have been installed with a M10 but we go by feeling and found optimal positions quickly with screw ons only. Usually we adopt to the gym we’re setting at and studio bloc is fine with using screw ons only if we want ☺️
The amount of side details you gave was really nice. Stronger people can skip the catch and lunge for the jug, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.
Thank you!
When you moved the jug down 13:55 (to make the fly-by dyno with the right hand easier) could you have instead added a foot-chip on the left to be able to launch higher? Or would that have potentially broken the toe-hook start?
Potentially. But then you’d have to stomp your left foot higher out of the toehook with the right which makes it usually a very tensiony powerful stompy move out of the difficulty range. But would have worked as well
Such good energy!🤩
Thank you!! 🫰
The best duo!
nice boulder and hold too
Looking at the first version at 7:00 I was wondering whether it's possible to put the hold somewhere in the middle between those two, and use it both as starting hold and as the toehook hold. So starting quite low with a double match and then exploding and catching it as a toehook.
The Orginal big starting handhold could have worked - problem was that the depth of it and the incline wasn’t as good as the big macro. The toehook would have not been as comfortable and secure - which we were looking for at this point. But in general if you can use one hold as start and the toehook? That’s champagne ☺️
@@BetaRoutesetting would be really interesting to seein a future episode, or something in general about re using holds in a different way
@@colemantrebor6574 ok we'll do that!!
Klasseboulder 👍
Wish i got to chat with you more Nicky when you were in KL Looking forward to your next visit
Next year!!
Mega
im a nigga
Mom's spaghetti.
Good tips! Nice problems!
Great mix of boulders. Some dynamic coordination moves, a slab, some pushing and a great powerful yet technical boulder to end it.
Nice episode!
This!!
Duuuude! I was in Shanghai last weekend; wish I would have known you set at Banana, would have checked it out. Beijing trip ever in the cards?
totally! we're trying to plan for next year - hopefully more cities like Beijing <3
Cool boulder problems, thanks for showing them
My favorite bromance to watch!
Brilliant! Life in China is futuristic! And technological advanced! Im a foreigner living here! HAve fun
Amazing UA-cam channel I really like your videos, really appreciate the raw content, little editing, it's truly a pleasure to watch 😁🙏
Schöne Holds, nices Setting und cooles Video. Leider ist das piepsen extrem anstrengend..
Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:23: Introduction to Makros 1:18: Building a Dynamic Boulder 3:48: Variations in Difficulty 4:40: Future Makros and Expansion
that is NOT how you spell macros
great video as always! I love those holds
The spin looks super cool, awesome job :D
Good stuff!!!
Yessss IDLES!!
I have a question. Is there any resource that explains the difference between grades? I see people like Magnus saying stuff like "This is supposed to be 7a but I think it's more like 7a+". I understand that comes from experience and is ultimately opinion but where does that information actually come from? On Toplogger there's usually a consensus of opinion on grades when 20 or more people have expressed a view so there must be some underlying facts being used to assess a route. Maybe you could make a video to answer the above? Set a 7a route for example and say why it is 7a and what alterations would make it 7a+ or 6b+ etc.
In my opinion for calling a grade the experience is most important. If you have climbed many boulders (or routes) of 6C, 6C+, 7A, 7A+ then you kinda know in which ballpark the boulder lies. Next thing: you need to be aware of your strengths and weaknesses. If you’re weak on a specific grip type and don‘t recognize it you might grade the boulder too high (vice versa if you‘re super strong on a specific grip type). Sometimes, when a boulder has a crux with only 1,2,3 moves you could ask yourself: should a climber who‘s climbing 7A solidly be able to do that move or not. But that approach often isn‘t easy to apply.
Grades are a tricky topic, the grade of a problem is subjective and usually based on what the first ascentionist (outdoors) or setter (indoors) thought and some consensus of the community's opinions. For example, how do you compare a boulder with a hard one move crux to a problem with 8 moderate moves that requires more endurance? Both problems might have the same grade but different people will find one or the other easier depending on their strengths and weaknesses.
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Grades are subjective & personal. That´s why I never used grades in any of my gyms. And we usually don´t use it in any of the German gyms - it just doesn't make sense. Outdoors is outdoors and indoors is indoors. Moonboard has its own grading system, font grades are different to Swiss grades... even though it's the same scale... so no I really can't and also don´t like grades at all. I think it´s the worst about climbing the need to compare... Unfortunately our brain only works with levels / grades to pour out endorphins and compare ourselves to another climb or whatsoever but I´m sadly the wrong person to talk to about this. 2. I can easily make a video - and hopefully do this often - in which I show how the changes will make it more difficult / easier sorry for this maybe not satisfying answer ;)
Du hast nen guten Musikgeschmack 🤘🏼😎
thank you for the explanation, see you in malaysia 🎉
See you! can't wait
Witziger Typ dieser Robert L 😂
hätte mir gerne noch ein zwei go's angeschaut von dem boulder
„Victory-Jug“ wird auf jedenfall ins klettervokabular aufgenommen
Cool boulder and cool video!