Beta Routesetting
Beta Routesetting
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Budapest Olympic Qualifier Mens Final Report
For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas
FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do
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QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
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Переглядів: 3 449

Відео

How to set a toe hook catch - Niki & Jake try another route setting tutorial
Переглядів 5 тис.День тому
We had some time at Studio Blocmasters 2024 to play around with some nice Squadraholds and filmed a short "how to set a toe hook catch" episode. Jake Mason from the Bouldering Bobat crew joined us for some setting & filming shenanigans - let us know if you want to see any other moves we can discover together in the future! Instagram: jakermason schniklas instagram.co...
Niki & Jake Route setting in China: Part 1 - Shanghai
Переглядів 2,6 тис.2 місяці тому
We went to China for some route setting abroad! It´s Jakes and Nikis first time ever in China - we got invited by Banana climbing & AGHolds for a one week trip route setting commercial & a comp in Shanghai & Ningbo. Enjoy what we did, what we share & our boulders with a crazy fun team! Niklas Wiechmann - schniklas Jake Mason - jakermason For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If y...
Setting a World Cup move boulder with shaper Manuel Wiegel & Jake Mason - New RESET climbing holds!
Переглядів 4 тис.2 місяці тому
Reset - our own climbing holds brand by Manuel Wiegel & Niklas Wiechmann. Enjoy Manu & Jake Mason setting, climbing, testing on the new set of our first range: cuddles Manu talks you through his thoughts behind the full range & how to set a spin move with them! if you got any questions let us know www.climb-holds.com For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become...
Route setting tips & tutorial: Setting boulders with limited space & holds
Переглядів 2,6 тис.3 місяці тому
Welcome to another route setting tips & advice episode. I deal with some questions from reddit showing how to set in limited spaces & with limited resources. If you have more questions about route setting let us know - always happy to talk about route setting! For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon....
First Reset Comp Boulder at Studio Bloc Masters 2024 Semifinals
Переглядів 1,6 тис.3 місяці тому
Watch Robert Leistner set with the new Reset Holds set "Cuddles" for the semi finals of Studio Bloc Masters 2024! resetholds For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do betaroutesetting QUESTION - Have a question...
Boulder des Monats März - Monolith Boulderhalle
Переглядів 1 тис.3 місяці тому
Niklas won the ticket to set one "Boulder of the month" in my gym this year. This episode is dedicated to Niklas and his vision. Thanks for joining us and having so much fun :) For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: www.patreon.com/heldniklas FACEBOOK PAGE - stay updated where we are and what we do betar...
How to make climbing holds? Meeting hold shaper Frank Bogerman at his Axis workshop.
Переглядів 1,8 тис.4 місяці тому
Meet Frank Bogerman: The founder of Axis climbing holds! He can show you how to make climbing holds! Axis founder & climbing hold shaper Frank Bogerman invited Niki to visit his workshop. They took a tour and Niki learnt a lot about making climbing holds, shaping, designing, the future & the past of Axis climbing holds service. Thank you Frank for showing us what´s coming & which ranges you are...
Dockmasters 2024 Final recap - Interview with route setters & athletes
Переглядів 2,9 тис.4 місяці тому
Jake and Niki visited the Dockmasters 2024 at Boulderhal Energiehaven in Utrecht to set some Boulders for the qualification round. For the first time ever I tried to capture some before & after comp comments from setters & athletes - cool show & cool boulders. I hope you like the quick & dirty episode. Thanks to climb-holds.com for making it possible & the cool Axis & Squadra boulders - will ta...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Marco Erspamer - Behind the scenes
Переглядів 3,2 тис.5 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Marco "Kirsch" Erspamer. Marco set the grande finale - the endless - the most dramatic boulder of the whole season. The famous Boulder 4 of Brixen. An awesome, open minded setter, emotional, fun & always looking for something new - trying to push the limit -...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Riccardo Caprasecca - Behind the scenes
Переглядів 4 тис.5 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Riccardo Caprasecca. Riccardo is a route setter & gym owner from Rome with the biggest heart for route setting you can only imagine. It's my biggest pleasure to spend time around & with him cause it's filled with laughter, Italian cursing & emotional nice ou...
How to set a boulder: Difficult boulders & moves tipps & advice - Route setting at hang London
Переглядів 9 тис.6 місяців тому
Welcome to another how to set tipps & tricks video: Route setting difficult moves above your limit. Again with my friends from bouldering Bobat at their gym hang in London. How can we set boulders or moves which are harder than we can climb? I hope to shed some light on ways how to set, test & tweak some things you can't climb. It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, c...
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Anna Borella - Behind the scenes route setting
Переглядів 3,1 тис.6 місяців тому
Hello friends & welcome to the ifs world cup 2023 at Brixen and our newest behind the scenes route setting episodes. This episode features Anna Borella - Italian licensed setter from Milano. It was Annas first time setting at an ifsc Worldcup and she was obviously quite nervous being filmed & interviewed. I did the interview after the comp via zoom and I'm incredibly thankful for Anna being so ...
Hang London Birthday Comp - Setting the Womens Final Boulder 3 - Squadra Frutti di Bosco
Переглядів 3,4 тис.6 місяців тому
It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, celebrated it's second birthday! This boulder was their first final boulder ever for Tom & Joe! Very exciting to play with the huge Squadra Frutti di Bosco volumes! Together with my friends from Bouldering Bobat we created 6 final blocs & 25 qualification boulders over 2 days of route setting. I'll show you some behind the scenes...
Hang London Birthday Comp - Setting the Mens Final Boulder 2 - Axis Climbing Holds
Переглядів 6 тис.6 місяців тому
It's London time again - my favorite boulder gym in London, Hang, celebrated it's second birthday! Together with my friends from Bouldering Bobat we created 6 final blocs & 25 qualification boulders over 2 days of route setting. I'll show you some behind the scenes route setting footage of some boulders over several episodes - enjoy! This boulder was my Mens final 2 with Axis climbs hold stacke...
Beta Talk: Communication in route setting spaces with guest Alise Zvigule
Переглядів 5636 місяців тому
Beta Talk: Communication in route setting spaces with guest Alise Zvigule
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Tsukuru Hori - Behind the scenes routesetting
Переглядів 10 тис.7 місяців тому
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Tsukuru Hori - Behind the scenes routesetting
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Stefan Scarperi - Behind the scenes routesetting
Переглядів 4,2 тис.7 місяців тому
IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2023 - Meet the Routesetters: Stefan Scarperi - Behind the scenes routesetting
Jumpstyle by Beta Routesetting - THE classic route setting video
Переглядів 2,6 тис.9 місяців тому
Jumpstyle by Beta Routesetting - THE classic route setting video
Using Depth & Angles in Setting - Route setting insights, tipps & tricks
Переглядів 6 тис.9 місяців тому
Using Depth & Angles in Setting - Route setting insights, tipps & tricks
Janja Garnbret doing her thing at the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Переглядів 19 тис.10 місяців тому
Janja Garnbret doing her thing at the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Anraku Sorato destroying the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Переглядів 14 тис.10 місяців тому
Anraku Sorato destroying the semi final round at the IFSC World Championship Bern 2023
Q & A - Behind the scenes of the Brixen Boulderworldcup 2023
Переглядів 2,6 тис.Рік тому
Q & A - Behind the scenes of the Brixen Boulderworldcup 2023
Setting a worldcup boulder at the Boulderworldcup in Brixen 2022 with Squadra Dadaos
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Рік тому
Setting a worldcup boulder at the Boulderworldcup in Brixen 2022 with Squadra Dadaos
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Mens Final
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Mens Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Womens Final
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Salt Lake City U.S.A. Womens Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Seoul Highlights Men & Women
Переглядів 4,6 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Seoul Highlights Men & Women
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Men Final
Переглядів 9 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Men Final
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Women Final
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
IFSC Worldcup Report 2023 Hachioji Japan Women Final
Studio Bloc Masters 2023 - The route setting process #2 - Female final
Переглядів 4,7 тис.Рік тому
Studio Bloc Masters 2023 - The route setting process #2 - Female final

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @BramHeerebout
    @BramHeerebout 10 годин тому

    Love the analysis with the green and red circles. Really highlights the difference in foot and body position

  • @jonathanrossddsmhs1271
    @jonathanrossddsmhs1271 15 годин тому

    I’m a Medji fan, but he didn’t climb his best while Sam and Paul did a little more. I like combined but hope there will be speed, combined, bouldering, and lead at LA Olympics.

  • @svenningen
    @svenningen 16 годин тому

    Glad to have these back!

  • @lukassentjurc1481
    @lukassentjurc1481 17 годин тому

    Gibts so ein reset shirt zu kaufen?

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 16 годин тому

      Bald! Wir sind gerade im Bestell Prozess - bekommst du hier und auf Instagram mit 😇

    • @lukassentjurc1481
      @lukassentjurc1481 16 годин тому

      Nice :)

  • @timlewis90
    @timlewis90 18 годин тому

    daily reports from niki and jake for every sport at the olympics

  • @nickyman007
    @nickyman007 18 годин тому

    what a fight for both of them !!

  • @user-dh9ff3sd9e
    @user-dh9ff3sd9e 21 годину тому

    Ulrich is back??? Gut das du das hier ansprichst, sonst wüsste ich es nicht. Wir waren mal mit Deinem Vatter klettern, in Göttingen am Kollos (jetzt natürlich total Verboten:)) Alles Liebe an euch beide. Micha

  • @HikeMoreWorryLess
    @HikeMoreWorryLess День тому

    Blocks probably too hard and only one top (only in M4) don't you think it was a bit of a boring race?

    • @colemantrebor6574
      @colemantrebor6574 16 годин тому

      There were 4 tops in M4 not 1. Still plenty of progress made by athletes so not boring at all but could be a bit better with a few more tops

  • @123amsterdan456
    @123amsterdan456 День тому

    Mejdi is different

  • @nicoswd
    @nicoswd День тому

    Madlib! <3

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 День тому

    I think the last move on m4 was really cool, really was a nice last move of the competition, very spectacular but not too hard. However I can see why it might be too easy considering how hard the rest of the round is. 4/32 tops is not ideal, I think like 10/32 would be better, altho as you say a hard round is better than an easy round and it's how hard to get it right. M1 final move and M2 2nd part could have been a little bit easier

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 День тому

    Daily olympic reports with Jake would be awesome

  • @BoulderingBobat
    @BoulderingBobat 6 днів тому

    Dream team

  • @user-dh9ff3sd9e
    @user-dh9ff3sd9e 10 днів тому

    Mehr davon, Niki! Das nächste Mal mit etwas mehr Ersthaftigkeit bei der Sache bleiben, sonst bekommt der Captain noch einen Herzinfarkt.

  • @_ttharon_7012
    @_ttharon_7012 11 днів тому

    Cool video! Which makita is this?

  • @jered_jones
    @jered_jones 12 днів тому

    Planning to open a gym in the future, so I have been studying route setting like crazy. Great job on this video. With the crazy costs of building a gym, especially those that are invested in the walls, I want to avoid chewing up the wall with endless amounts of screw holes. Does that make sense? With this in mind, I like the idea of your “working jug”, but why would you not simply use a bolt on hold and avoid the unnecessary screw damage. Serious inquiry- not a jab. Thanks.

    • @fredericohsilva
      @fredericohsilva 12 днів тому

      The wear of the wall is part of the job your wall will get old and boring long before it's destroyed by set screws. Don't worry so much, because when you do your setting will suffer from it. It's pretty lame when routesetters are kept on their toes because management doesn't want screw holes. Setters should be responsible and conscious of what it is acceptable or not, make them think before doing anything as it should be, but don't police them too hard as their final product will suffer from it.

    • @_ttharon_7012
      @_ttharon_7012 11 днів тому

      Make a concrete wall, no one will put screws in😂

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 8 днів тому

      No you are totally right. Usually we use designated down climbing jugs but on the other hand a wall with the size of studio bloc lasts another ten years before any of the panels need to be replaced because of too many holes. But in general we use down climbers or a M10. Was just too lazy in the moment of the video tbh

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 8 днів тому

      I hope wall owners (some do) tell you it’s forbidden to put screws ons in. If you got questions about walls or wall designs let us know. A lot of mistakes can be avoided and money saved ☺️

  • @EatPastaBeFasta
    @EatPastaBeFasta 12 днів тому

    As a routesetter I have to say, screwing in testing jugs with spax instead of M10 makes some gym owners re ally not happy. Also if you search positions for holds I would use M10 first and then for fine tuning if necessary use the spax. Like in this boulder both starting holds are very close to M10s and as far as I can see in the video they dont even tried them. But all in all a good tutorial :)

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 8 днів тому

      As always it depends on the gym. If it’s unnecessary screwing yes - like our testing hold, we should have used a normal axis downclimber with a M10 but we’re too lazy and too focused doing our video. The two side pulls maybe could have been installed with a M10 but we go by feeling and found optimal positions quickly with screw ons only. Usually we adopt to the gym we’re setting at and studio bloc is fine with using screw ons only if we want ☺️

  • @deslomator
    @deslomator 12 днів тому

    The amount of side details you gave was really nice. Stronger people can skip the catch and lunge for the jug, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.

  • @simonrobbins815
    @simonrobbins815 12 днів тому

    When you moved the jug down 13:55 (to make the fly-by dyno with the right hand easier) could you have instead added a foot-chip on the left to be able to launch higher? Or would that have potentially broken the toe-hook start?

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 8 днів тому

      Potentially. But then you’d have to stomp your left foot higher out of the toehook with the right which makes it usually a very tensiony powerful stompy move out of the difficulty range. But would have worked as well

  • @viljamiketola2085
    @viljamiketola2085 13 днів тому

    Such good energy!🤩

  • @svenningen
    @svenningen 13 днів тому

    The best duo!

  • @nickyman007
    @nickyman007 13 днів тому

    nice boulder and hold too

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 13 днів тому

    Looking at the first version at 7:00 I was wondering whether it's possible to put the hold somewhere in the middle between those two, and use it both as starting hold and as the toehook hold. So starting quite low with a double match and then exploding and catching it as a toehook.

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 8 днів тому

      The Orginal big starting handhold could have worked - problem was that the depth of it and the incline wasn’t as good as the big macro. The toehook would have not been as comfortable and secure - which we were looking for at this point. But in general if you can use one hold as start and the toehook? That’s champagne ☺️

    • @colemantrebor6574
      @colemantrebor6574 5 днів тому

      @@BetaRoutesetting would be really interesting to seein a future episode, or something in general about re using holds in a different way

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting День тому

      @@colemantrebor6574 ok we'll do that!!

  • @miguelzapato1956
    @miguelzapato1956 13 днів тому

    Klasseboulder 👍

  • @BoulderingHighlights
    @BoulderingHighlights 13 днів тому

    Wish i got to chat with you more Nicky when you were in KL Looking forward to your next visit

  • @stuart0397
    @stuart0397 13 днів тому

    Mega

  • @julekkunat8203
    @julekkunat8203 16 днів тому

    im a nigga

  • @hairtoss7975
    @hairtoss7975 16 днів тому

    Mom's spaghetti.

  • @Bobonautti
    @Bobonautti Місяць тому

    Good tips! Nice problems!

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 Місяць тому

    Great mix of boulders. Some dynamic coordination moves, a slab, some pushing and a great powerful yet technical boulder to end it.

  • @colemantrebor6574
    @colemantrebor6574 Місяць тому

    Nice episode!

  • @user-fs6ri8zf1x
    @user-fs6ri8zf1x Місяць тому

    This!!

  • @brendanacord
    @brendanacord 2 місяці тому

    Duuuude! I was in Shanghai last weekend; wish I would have known you set at Banana, would have checked it out. Beijing trip ever in the cards?

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting Місяць тому

      totally! we're trying to plan for next year - hopefully more cities like Beijing <3

  • @massimodeluca1637
    @massimodeluca1637 2 місяці тому

    Cool boulder problems, thanks for showing them

  • @svenningen
    @svenningen 2 місяці тому

    My favorite bromance to watch!

  • @blairmclaughlin6918
    @blairmclaughlin6918 2 місяці тому

    Brilliant! Life in China is futuristic! And technological advanced! Im a foreigner living here! HAve fun

  • @pierre5061
    @pierre5061 2 місяці тому

    Amazing UA-cam channel I really like your videos, really appreciate the raw content, little editing, it's truly a pleasure to watch 😁🙏

  • @ColumbusBean
    @ColumbusBean 2 місяці тому

    Schöne Holds, nices Setting und cooles Video. Leider ist das piepsen extrem anstrengend..

  • @summatim
    @summatim 2 місяці тому

    Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:23: Introduction to Makros 1:18: Building a Dynamic Boulder 3:48: Variations in Difficulty 4:40: Future Makros and Expansion

    • @PandasAreCooI
      @PandasAreCooI 2 місяці тому

      that is NOT how you spell macros

  • @samehmann7353
    @samehmann7353 2 місяці тому

    great video as always! I love those holds

  • @supernoob3338
    @supernoob3338 2 місяці тому

    The spin looks super cool, awesome job :D

  • @Bobonautti
    @Bobonautti 3 місяці тому

    Good stuff!!!

  • @catgomez2940
    @catgomez2940 3 місяці тому

    Yessss IDLES!!

  • @TonyFisherPuzzles
    @TonyFisherPuzzles 3 місяці тому

    I have a question. Is there any resource that explains the difference between grades? I see people like Magnus saying stuff like "This is supposed to be 7a but I think it's more like 7a+". I understand that comes from experience and is ultimately opinion but where does that information actually come from? On Toplogger there's usually a consensus of opinion on grades when 20 or more people have expressed a view so there must be some underlying facts being used to assess a route. Maybe you could make a video to answer the above? Set a 7a route for example and say why it is 7a and what alterations would make it 7a+ or 6b+ etc.

    • @anticoxchange7698
      @anticoxchange7698 3 місяці тому

      In my opinion for calling a grade the experience is most important. If you have climbed many boulders (or routes) of 6C, 6C+, 7A, 7A+ then you kinda know in which ballpark the boulder lies. Next thing: you need to be aware of your strengths and weaknesses. If you’re weak on a specific grip type and don‘t recognize it you might grade the boulder too high (vice versa if you‘re super strong on a specific grip type). Sometimes, when a boulder has a crux with only 1,2,3 moves you could ask yourself: should a climber who‘s climbing 7A solidly be able to do that move or not. But that approach often isn‘t easy to apply.

    • @simonrobbins815
      @simonrobbins815 3 місяці тому

      Grades are a tricky topic, the grade of a problem is subjective and usually based on what the first ascentionist (outdoors) or setter (indoors) thought and some consensus of the community's opinions. For example, how do you compare a boulder with a hard one move crux to a problem with 8 moderate moves that requires more endurance? Both problems might have the same grade but different people will find one or the other easier depending on their strengths and weaknesses.

    • @BetaRoutesetting
      @BetaRoutesetting 2 місяці тому

      Hey, sorry for the late reply. Grades are subjective & personal. That´s why I never used grades in any of my gyms. And we usually don´t use it in any of the German gyms - it just doesn't make sense. Outdoors is outdoors and indoors is indoors. Moonboard has its own grading system, font grades are different to Swiss grades... even though it's the same scale... so no I really can't and also don´t like grades at all. I think it´s the worst about climbing the need to compare... Unfortunately our brain only works with levels / grades to pour out endorphins and compare ourselves to another climb or whatsoever but I´m sadly the wrong person to talk to about this. 2. I can easily make a video - and hopefully do this often - in which I show how the changes will make it more difficult / easier sorry for this maybe not satisfying answer ;)

  • @dedoers2170
    @dedoers2170 3 місяці тому

    Du hast nen guten Musikgeschmack 🤘🏼😎

  • @nickyman007
    @nickyman007 3 місяці тому

    thank you for the explanation, see you in malaysia 🎉

  • @mikafull
    @mikafull 3 місяці тому

    Witziger Typ dieser Robert L 😂

  • @Fred-oz3tw
    @Fred-oz3tw 3 місяці тому

    hätte mir gerne noch ein zwei go's angeschaut von dem boulder

  • @LukeBrandenburg
    @LukeBrandenburg 3 місяці тому

    „Victory-Jug“ wird auf jedenfall ins klettervokabular aufgenommen

  • @samehmann7353
    @samehmann7353 3 місяці тому

    Cool boulder and cool video!